Vertex Review: The Dirty Dozen Reborn

In World War II, the British Ministry of Defence commissioned 12 Swiss companies to build watches for the troops. These became known as "The Dirty Dozen." Vertex was the only British-owned company among them (though the watches were Swiss made). Like Fears, it died in the Quartz Crisis and was revived in 2016 by the founder's great-grandson, Don Cochrane.

The Aesthetic: Field Watch

Vertex watches are military. They are legible, robust, and functional. The M100 is a modern interpretation of the WWII watch. It has "molded numerals" made of solid lume (Super-LumiNova). They glow like nuclear reactors.

The Launch Strategy

When Vertex relaunched, you couldn't buy one. You had to be invited by an owner. It created massive hype. Now, they are available to the public, but the aura of exclusivity remains.

The Verdict

Priced around £2,500. Like Fears, it uses a top-grade Swiss movement. But the attention to detail is stunning. It comes in a Pelican case (military style). If you want a "Field Watch" that is more exclusive than a Hamilton but has real history, Vertex is the one.

Pros:

• Genuine military heritage (Dirty Dozen).
• Best lume in the business (3D numerals).
• Cool "Club" vibe.

Cons:

• Only one real style (Military).
• Expensive for a field watch.

Related: Fears Review | Garrick Review